The start of planning for this tour was easy: I %26#39;ve been twice before to Bhutan, Sonam knew what I liked (walking and nature) so I gave him a few requests and our tour was fixed. I thought..
In January Drukair changed the days for flights to Paro, and we had to re-arrange our flights to Delhi.
One week before our trip, Drukair did it again, and Nirvanaexpeditions notified us immediately that we were delayed by one day. So our visa had to be changed as well, and actually arrived a few hours before my departure from home.This last week was very stressful, as we were not sure how we could manage the extra day in Delhi.But on my arrival, Drukair provided us with transport, hotel and all meals, until the flight next day. In the hotel we met a few stranded groups, some were not notified in advance by their touragent in Bhutan, and were returned from the airport, a very unpleasant experience for them.
Day 1: We were received in Paro by Sonam, and driver Karma, a new big bus (we were 8), so had enough space for all. Drove straight to Thimphu on the enlarged road, as the Institute of Traditional medicine closes early, and we had a planned seminar the next day.Later visited the handmade paper factory. Just below that is a new shop of Thangkha paintings, with explanations about the origin of different natural colours, worth a visit. We stayed in Hotel Jumolhari, nice and clean.Smaller rooms than the Druk, which didn%26#39;t have place for us, but adequate.
Day 2: Our seminar was conducted by known physicians in the field,and covered topics of our interest, very good. Later we visited the market, always a colourful picture,and giving good insight of people%26#39;s way of life.
Day 3:
The morning was for sightseeing for the group, Folk heritage museum, and school of Traditional arts and crafts, and I went to some bookshops. I like the books about life in Bhutan, every year there are more, and their price is much better than at home.
Later drove to Dochula for lunch in the new cafeteria, and on to Punakha, in the late afternoon walking to the Divine Madman%26#39;s Temple. We stayed in Y.T. for two nights.
Day 4: First visit to the most beautiful Dzong in Bhutan, with many picture stops.Each time I see different parts of it, it is too big to absorb in one time.So very rich, I could stay for hours just looking around.The bridge was being rebuilt for the upcoming Coronation of the new King.
Then we drove a bit and hiked to Namgyal Yulley Chorten, on a hill with beautiful views, and flowers.Picknick lunch near the river. On the way back to the hotel stopped at the institute for disadvantaged girls, where girls from all parts of the country learn to make souvenirs out of indigenous materials. They then go back to their villages and can set up their own buisiness and make a living.
Day 5: A long drive from Punakha via Wangdi,some monkey%26#39;s, Pelela with many Rhododendrons, and Yak%26#39;s (surprisingly low for this time of the year, shows how cool it was), lunch at Chendebji, Trongsa, Yotungla in clouds, till Bumthang. This is a very long and tiring drive, all compliments reserved for Karma, calm and quiet on the narrow road.We stayed in Rinchenling Lodge, where the food is of the best quality and taste, lovely rooms with wood-stove, needed in the cold evening.
Day 6:A day for visiting a few of the holy places in Bumthang,Jambey, Kurjey, Tamshing,a bit the town, and the hospital.Only general physicians, and mostly 2 or 3, are working with very basic facilities, their referrals to Thimphu or Mongar drive at least one day.There are basic health-units in most valley%26#39;s who take care of first-line cases.
Day 7: On the way back from Bumthang, the group shopped a lot at the local weaving centre in Chumey, visited Trongsa Dzong, and after Pelela we entered the Phobjikha-valley. Stay at Dewachen hotel, my favorite hotel in the most beautiful valley I know. Later I found the children I took pictures of last time and could give them the photo%26#39;s with some pens and crayons. One of them invited us to her school the next day.
Day 8:Starting with the school, we made a long walk through the valley, saw a small village with Temple, had all the people walk behind us. In the afternoon visit to the Gangtey Gompa which is still beiing restored but is progressing, and did some meditiation.Here the prayerflags I received in Thimphu were blessed.
Day 9: From the hotel we started walking to our trek, slowly going up with lots of different coloured rhododendrons and orchids. The afternoon it started to rain, as most days, but this was a bit more. By evening we had camp fixed and a nice fire to keep warm.Food on the trek was of high quality and we felt very spoiled.
Day 10: Climbing was slow as some people found it difficult, but all made it. Then it started to rain again, so going down was slippery and slow too.
Even the cow-herders we passed had a hard time.
Day 11: A nice dry day with a short climb and a long downhillwalk. Karma was waiting with the car and took us back to Punakha and Y.T.Hotel.There it was warm, a big difference with the mountain-climate we had on top.
Day 12:In the morning most wanted to sleep, so just two went to the hospital in Punakha, and joined there the Austrian doctor who is doing two years of volunteer work.We saw opposite the hospital, that work on the bridge to the Dzong was finished, but there was still work on the parkinglot, so the time for the Coronation was not near.
On Dochula we hang my prayerflags next to the many others, hoping the prayers will reach their destination with help of the winds.
Via Thimphu, for lunch and more lasttime shopping for some,driving to Paro, Namseycholing hotel, one of the nice ones.In the evening we had a group with Bhutanese songs and dances, in the hotel.
Day 13: In the morning start to hike to Taktsang-monastry, after our trek, this was still hard for some. It is possible to rent a pony up, until the cafeteria, where some stayed. The rest went on, along big tents where people were preparing buttercakes for an upcoming big religious ceremony.
Over the narrow stairs,reaching the Temple-complex is every time something special. Even Sonam said he makes pictures every time he comes. It is so beautiful, impossible to describe.Inside also the feeling is of respect, awe, sort of holiness.
After our return to the cafeteria we had lunch there and the group went to the museum in Paro. We finished with the Kyichu Temple, again in the rain.
Dinner at Sonam Trophel%26#39;s with speeches, Karma joined us, and Sonam%26#39;s wife, Dechen, came from Thimphu to say goodbye and join the dinner.
Day 14: Drive to the airport for our flight to Delhi, where we had arranged a tour to Agra for the day and a half before our flights back home.
This report was written on request of some forum-users. Although I%26#39;m not a writer,I hope I%26#39;ve answered most questions. I%26#39;d be happy to answer more specific ones.
Two first trips were in Autumn, with beautiful colours, and this time I wanted to see the Spring flowers.It was indeed very colourful, but the weather this time was bad. We had rain almost every day, and hardly saw a clear sky. As I use films, I cannot show you my pictures, but believe me that the weather affected the brightness of them.
My thanks to Sonam for another great trip, and to Karma for safe and relaxed driving. Tashi Delek (cheers).
Tripreport April-May 2008
Excellent. Thank you.
Tripreport April-May 2008
Excellent and useful report. It%26#39;s getting me enthused about our late October trip. Hope we have better luck with the Druk Air portion!!
BluePhantom,
Glad you liked it.
What is your itinary, and for how long?
Drukair changed the times and days because of the strong winds in the afternoon in spring. There should be no problem in autumn.
Have a wonderful time. Bhutan is a very special place.
Bhutantraveler:
Our Bhutan trip portion duration is 10 days. We have been working with Sonham at Nirvana. He has been prompt in all inquiries and the funds transfer went off without any difficulties:
Previous: Portland - JFK - Bangkok (October 21 - 22)
Day 1: Bangkok - Paro onward to Thimpu (October 23)
Day 2: Thimpu
Day 3: Thimpu - Phobjika Valley
Day 4: Phobjika - Bumthang
Day 5: Bumthang
Day 6: Bumthang - Punakha
Day 7: Punakha
Day 8: Punakha - Paro
Day 9: Paro
Day 10: Paro ( Free Day)
Day 11: Paro - Bangkok - Siem Reap ( Nov. 2)
Day 12 - 14 Siem Reap
Day 14 - Seim Reap - Bangkok - JFK - Portland
We arrive in Bangkok around 4:30PM and will overnight at the Novotel. There are reports that Thai may discontinue the JFK - Bangkok non stop so we may have to do some adjustments. An alternative filght will get us in Bangkok around 9PM. Hopefully the flight will be retained as we took it ( premium economy) two years ago on our Nepal, Tibet, Saigon trip. We were able to secure business class on Druk Air per several suggestions on this board. They haven%26#39;t released their fall schedule yet, but the thought seemed to be that we would be able to get seats in business also.
Time now to enjoy the Maine summer as it is much too short. We%26#39;ll do some sailing as the ocean is about a mile away and also spend some time at our camp which is about 25 miles from our house.
This is a very nice itinary, with many two-nights stops. Do you have a corner free in your suitcase for me??
The buisiness in Drukair is very cheap and worth it. So you%26#39;ll have at least one window seat. Be early, as they don%26#39;t reserve seats in advance. Ask Sonam which side is the best from BKK, I think the right side of the plane.
In Thimphu try to go to some bookshops, one is behind Jumolhari hotel, the other next to the cinema on the way to the bank, on a little empty square, and I saw another next to the corner with the traffic-policeman, but this will be for my next time.
I%26#39;m sure you%26#39;ll have a great time, and after Bhutan, the world will look different.
Meanwhile, enjoy your summer overthere, and the preparations for Bhutan.
Hi Bhutantraveller,
Your trip report brings back some wonderful memories. You have obviously fallen under the spell of Bhutan, so have I. I find myself reading the Kuensel online (very interesting!) and reading tripadviser forums. You might have already watched the great Bhutanese movie Travellers and Magicians? If not well worth it. Let me know if you would like me to pass on the webadress of the people I bought it from. And if you do buy it go for the book as well. It has some wonderful details about Bhutan in it, which you might not otherwise get. The other book to recommend is Baby in a backpack by Bunty Avery (not quite sure about the spelling) An Australian woman who went to Bhutan for a few month with the filmcrew and her baby. More insight into life in Bhutan.
I keep my fingers crossed and prayer wheels turned, if I had any, for an upcoming trip back to Bhutan in October to finally show my husband this amazing country. I think it%26#39;s the combination of incredible landscapes, architecture and definitely the people. October can%26#39;t come soon enough.
Keep on writing....so lovely to read....Thank you from a beautiful morning in Ruby Bay New Zealand, Anne
Hi Anne,
Thank you for your comments.
I didn%26#39;t see these books, so%26#39;d love to get information on how to buy them. Didn%26#39;t see them in Bhutan.In the shop next to the cinema there is a special nice in the back with all books about Bhutan, hope you%26#39;ll have time to see it.
How great you can return with your husband. I%26#39;m sure you%26#39;ll both enjoy the trip, and you%26#39;ll notice different things from your first time. It is just so much to grab, that it takes time to realise what you%26#39;ve seen.I think it is the perfect combination of nature in its best- unspoiled by people,tradition- both in architecture and dresses, beautiful Temples, and happy and proud persons trying to move on with the world in their own pace, preserving their wonderful culture.
I too read the Kuenselonline, and wait to see when the Coronation will take place. It will be a private ceremony in Punakha dzong, and a big celebration in Thimphu with foreign guests.There was talking about May, but this is already proven as incorrect.
Enjoy your preperations and countdown for your trip.
Thank you for your message.
Here is the website of the Film http://www.travellersandmagicians.com/ and this is their e-mail adress: %26#39;bg@khyentsefoundation.org%26#39; and this is the website of the Australian lady http://www.buntyavieson.com/links.htm I had her name wrong in my last posting to you. The director of the film is a Bhutanese reeincarnated monk, he seems a lovely guy, he travels the world and this was only his second film. The first one must be great too, it%26#39;s called the cup. About Tibetan monks playing soccer.
Well I hope you will enjoy it. Great to read the Bunty Avieson book first, gives you some background to the story. And go for the book DVD deal, it%26#39;s like the script, you get more out of the movie that way.
And I will definitely look out for the book store in Thimpu. Have bought the cookbook from the Bumthang lady on my last visit.
Just remembered, there is another book about Jean Claude White (spelling?)He was a Brittish officer living in Sikkim and visiting Tibet and Bhutan and took lots of photos in about the 1880%26#39;s. It%26#39;s a beautiful historic piece and you learn quite a bit about the history of those countries. I think it has been written by an American who%26#39;s name escapes me at the moment. But I can find out if you like.
Are there anymore must sees for my return. We did Paro-Thimpu-Punakha-Jakar-a two day hike there (Uygen Choling Palace)-Trongsa-Wangdi (YT also)Paro and of course the Tigers Nest.
This time I still love to go all the way to Bumthang but would love to ad the Jomolhari trek at the end.
Cheers from a frosty morning in NZ
Anne
We are in the process of planning a trip to Bhutan, and would appreciate any recommendations for tour companies to use (preferably Bhutan-based tour companies) and places to see/not to miss. I%26#39;ve gotten information from a couple so far (Bhutan Majestic Travel and Etho Methos) and what I%26#39;ve seen thus far seems good, but it always helps to hear from people who have been and have used a particular tour company.
We are planning to trek, but I can%26#39;t decide between doing a trek for the full time that we are there (like the Jhomolhari trek) or doing a shorter trek (like Druk Path) and going to either the Nabji area or Bhumthang (and possibly doing a short trek in either of those places). We are planning to travel for approximately two weeks, and there is way too much to see in just two weeks.
Any insight would be welcome!
To Anne,
Thank you for the information, I%26#39;ll check it out. I printed all the articles about Bhutan I could find on TA, and that%26#39;s how I started to know it. I still have much to learn.
As for your tour, I%26#39;d advise you to visit the Phobjikha valley, my favorite, with the renovated Gangtey Gompa, where all craftworkers are busy all day with the decorations. the valley is a hanging-glacial one, wide and rather empty. The nature is inspiring and you can make long walks. We started the trek from there, the last time.
In Trongsa the museum in the tower will be open in October,saw just in Kuensel that it%26#39;ll open in September, after renovations for 3 years.
From Paro you can drive up the pass towards Haa, some 4000 meters high, with carpets of Edelweiss and Gentian, as I never saw in Switzerland. From the pass you can walk back to Paro, a very long way down, but with great views.
If you didn%26#39;t visit it the first time, you can ask your guide to add the Kyichu Temple, between Paro and Taktsang, with the Jambey Temple in Bumthang, the oldest in the country from the 7th century. And at the end of the Paro-valley are the ruins of Drukyel Dzong, from where you can see Jumolhari if it%26#39;s clear.
On Dochu-La the new temple is now finished, and the view from there is worth the extra minutes-stop.
The Jumolhari trek is also on my wish-list, but couldn%26#39;t get partners for it, as it is longer and harder than the Bumthang and Gangtey treks.So this will wait till my next visit, hopefully next year if I can combine it with some volunteer work.
Ask you guide about your itinary and see how you can combine the must-see sights for your husband with some new things for you. For more questions I%26#39;m available.M.
To Petunia,
If you write here, you saw my report. This was our third time with Nirvanaexpeditions, and with Sonam as our guide.I can only say very positive things about the way he handled all my questions and requests,answering prompt many mails, dealing with last minute-changes, people%26#39;s wishes during the tour,to dietary requests in the hotels and during the trek.He has a broad knowledge, a vey rich English and is a kind person. His wife,Dechen helps him now in the office, and she too,is very nice and professional in her dealings with clients. They put a lot of extra%26#39;s in the tour, which make it all so special.
The government-fixed price includes the basics, hotels meals, car, driver and guide, and entrance-fees. Everything extra is a plus, but not every company does more than they have to. Your personal itinary starts with the exchange of mails and letting them know your wishes. Accordingly they will build your personal trip. F.e. I asked to stay two nights in Phobjikha, and Sonam thought how to fill the whole day there. We did a long walk through a village where tourists don%26#39;t come usually, visited a school,and practised some meditation. It was a very relaxing day before our trek.
About what trek to do you can ask advise from Sonam.It also depends on your abilities. The treks are on an altitude of 3000-4500 meters, and this can be hard.
The language is a factor too to consider. I%26#39;ve heard other guides speaking English which was hard to understand. Sonam and Dechen have lived in the U.S. for 7 years.You can write to :Sonam.dorjee@nirvanaexpeditions.com
Hope you%26#39;ll find your special tour.If you have more questions, feel free to ask.M.
